South
Indians are a tolerant people. Hinduism, Islam, Judaism and Christianity have
flourished along this Malabar coast for centuries. On our first shore excursion
of the day, Joseph leads us through a lovely old 18th century church built by
the Portuguese. He then takes us along a rough pathway to a wood-carver's workshop,
one room of which is filled with larger-than-life size statues of saints and
Madonnas. They appear commonplace at first glance, lacking any originality of
design or concept, and we glance around desultorily, hoping we can make good
our escape before the owner hits us with a sales pitch.
I pause before a massive Crucifix carved in rich brown
wood, which stands propped against a wall-and the expression of the Christ figure
causes me to suck in my breath. It portrays the desolation of a man, crying
out in spiritual anguish, "My God, my God, why hast thou forsaken me?"
This is not just a thing of wood; it is an artist's elegy to his personal Lord
and Savior. I run my fingers across the wood surface, over the knotted, strained
muscles in an upper arm, the cruel jut of the rib-cage, and the distended network
of veins along the calves and feet. It strikes me that there is something extraordinary
about standing here in a battered shack set in a grove of palm-trees in an insignificant
little village, with sawdust motes dancing in a shaft of sunlight, the smell
of turpentine and polish, and the sounds of chipping, sawing and planing surrounding
me, and looking at an unsung piece of art that has its creator's soul limned
into the wood-grain.
The owner of the workshop is a stocky, bespectacled
man in his mid-thirties. "The art of wood carving goes back three generations
in my family," he explains. "I spent two years at the J.J. School
of Arts in Bombay," he says, "but my father and my grandfather never
had a lesson in their lives." He shows us a 3-inch high bas-relief of a
village scene rendered in exquisite detail down to the curve of a grass blade
under the foot of a tiny goat. " My grandfather carved this," he says,
and then, catching my questioning glance he adds, "but it is not for sale.
It is part of my family's heritage."
Contrary to our earlier misgivings, he does not press
us to buy anything, as very few of the exhibits are for sale. Most have been
hand-carved on order from churches or private patrons.
On our way back to the houseboat, Joseph talks about
the big annual Snake Boat race held in August along the backwaters.
The festival is exuberant with music and dancing and as a warm up to the main
event, a regatta of gaily decorated small craft tack their way past tens of
thousands of people. Then, when the Snake Boat race starts, the crowd goes wild.
They wave and cheer as rowing teams from twenty or thirty villages up and down
the coast compete fiercely to win the much coveted Nehru Cup. Every boat is
an original piece of work, carved with pride and skill. "It takes many
years to make a canoe," says Joseph. "Come, I will show you one that
is still being constructed even after eight years."
Small wonder. Mounted on struts in an open-sided hut
is a gargantuan Snake Boat. At a length of 131 feet, it extends urther than
the depth of my larger-than-average residential plot back home. It has a draft
of just under 2 feet, is 5.75 feet in girth and is surmounted by an 9-foot high
headpiece shaped to resemble a formidable cobra-head. 110 men row in synch to
the chant of four singers seated fore and aft, while a drummer sitting half
way along the length of the boat, pounds a sturdy log against the bottom of
the canoe. Not only does this provide a rhythm for the oarsmen, but it propels
the craft forward by lifting it up very slightly after each hefty thud, thereby
increasing its velocity. Teams routinely clock a mile in four minutes but, according
to Joseph, they have to do better than that in order to win.
Alappuzha dozes in the afternoon glare as we pull
up to the jetty. This is journey's end. The crew pile our overnight bags onto
the dock, and Ramdas, the driver of our rented car, helps us haul them into
the trunk. We say our farewells, and John poles the houseboat away from the
bank. As the boat grows smaller, we hear him singing across the widening band
of water.
Margaret Deefholts
March 27, 2002
IF YOU GO:
Getting There:
Although buses ply between the large neighbouring twin cities of Kochi and Ernakulam
to both Alappuzha and Kolam (the latter is also connected by rail to Chennai)
the most convenient option is to rent a taxi from Kochi to Alappuzha (about
a 90 min. drive at a cost of approx CAD$10.00 one way) and cruise down to Kolam.
An hour and a half away by taxi from Kolam is the attractive beach resort of
Kovalam. Kochi (worth a couple of days' stay in itself) is connected by rail
(Ernakulam) and air to Mumbai, Goa, Delhi, Bangalore and Chennai, but not all
flights run daily, so check with your travel agent.
Where to Stay:
Kochi and Ernakulam have several hotels, ranging from five-star luxury accommodation
to mid-priced establishments and budget accommodation. Prices run the gamut
from CAD$120 to CAD $10 per day. Prices are generally lower in both Alappuzha
and Kolam. Check out The Lonely Planet Guide - India or your travel agent for
details.
The Backwaters:
Houseboats (rattan-framed, converted rice-boats) may
be booked through the District Tourist Promotion Council or the Kerala Government
Tourist Department, or by a local travel agent. Overnight tours run to approximately
CAD $170.00 for a two-double-bedroom houseboat (some provide up to eight bunks)
with an add-on of $18.00 per person for three meals.
Day
tours: Houseboats may also be hired for day trips at CAD $120 (plus meals) which
is an attractive bargain for group travel. In addition, the Kerala Tourist Development
Corporation runs eight hour trips between Alleppey and Kollam for a nominal
CAD $8.00 per person (meals extra) which include the services of a knowledgeable
tour guide. Other than a stop for lunch en-route, the trip does not include
shore excursions. Although the government boats may lack the ambience of a houseboat,
they run on schedule, are spanking clean and well maintained. Bookings and details
are available at the Kerala Government Tourist Reception Centre in Kochi or
through your travel agent.
Public Ferries also crisscross the backwaters. Among
other routes, The State Water Transport runs six ferries a day between Alappuzha
and Kottayam (2-1/2 hours) at a cost of (CAD) 20 cents per trip. Hop on if you
want something that goes beyond conventional tourist expectations.
South
Indians are a tolerant people. Hinduism, Islam, Judaism and Christianity have
flourished along this Malabar coast for centuries. On our first shore excursion
of the day, Joseph leads us through a lovely old 18th century church built by
the Portuguese. He then takes us along a rough pathway to a wood-carver's workshop,
one room of which is filled with larger-than-life size statues of saints and
Madonnas. They appear commonplace at first glance, lacking any originality of
design or concept, and we glance around desultorily, hoping we can make good
our escape before the owner hits us with a sales pitch. 
backwaters.
The festival is exuberant with music and dancing and as a warm up to the main
event, a regatta of gaily decorated small craft tack their way past tens of
thousands of people. Then, when the Snake Boat race starts, the crowd goes wild.
They wave and cheer as rowing teams from twenty or thirty villages up and down
the coast compete fiercely to win the much coveted Nehru Cup. Every boat is
an original piece of work, carved with pride and skill. "It takes many
years to make a canoe," says Joseph. "Come, I will show you one that
is still being constructed even after eight years."
Day
tours: Houseboats may also be hired for day trips at CAD $120 (plus meals) which
is an attractive bargain for group travel. In addition, the Kerala Tourist Development
Corporation runs eight hour trips between Alleppey and Kollam for a nominal
CAD $8.00 per person (meals extra) which include the services of a knowledgeable
tour guide. Other than a stop for lunch en-route, the trip does not include
shore excursions. Although the government boats may lack the ambience of a houseboat,
they run on schedule, are spanking clean and well maintained. Bookings and details
are available at the Kerala Government Tourist Reception Centre in Kochi or
through your travel agent.